"OK, Mr. Frei? So, what happened next?" I can hear you ask, perhaps offering a thought for today's blog entry.
But wait! Before I get into Day 2, let me thank those of you who have made something significant from a "quiet" fundraiser. As of today, we're at $6776 for financial aid for the boys at Boys' Latin. To those of you who have weighed in, thank you! To those of you who are still on the fence...climb in the boat!
Ok...on with the narrative.
6/23, Day 2: After loading in my stuff on the low dock at Lockport – including Harold's copious supplies – and after a Big Breakfast at Denny's, I readied myself for my first lock experience. I walked over to the lock keeper to get advice, and it was embarrassingly simple: "When I open the gate, row in, grab a line, and wait until I open the lower doors." He might have overstated the complexity.
Lockport is a double lock dropping 49 feet in total, and locking through was indeed a breeze. One feels like a tub toy as the water gets lower and you sit in an increasingly voluminous concrete cavern, but locking down is a pretty placid experience. It seems odd to see this enormous infrastructure serving the likes of a 15 foot rowboat, but throughout the trip the lock keepers assured me that that's what it's there for. They were a very accommodating and encouraging lot, calling ahead to the next lock with an ETA and, later in the trip, allowing me to camp out on their impeccably kept grounds.
One more riff about the lock keepers, if I may?
These guys (sorry, no lock keeper-ettes, to my knowledge) are extraordinary. They are not only responsible for the safe operation of some pretty massive machinery (not an altogether easy task considering the amateurs who call on those services each day), but for its upkeep as well. This is 1915 technology, machinery, and circuitry, and each winter they take it apart piece by piece to refurbish, polish, and bring it back to virtually new condition. Each lock's equipment is a museum piece…a work of art, really…and they would proudly open up the plates and shields that house the gears, electrics, and valves. It all sparkled. Unbelievable.
These fellows are sanguine about the role the canal now plays. I saw only one commercial vessel – a barge – throughout my trip, and one lock keeper put it well: "We're responsible for the upkeep of antiquated infrastructure within a stretched budget." They work under the auspices of the New York State Thruway Authority, and it seems that the Thruway folks are anxious to shift the Canal – and I suspect some red ink – to another agency. Whatever the future holds, the canal is a resource that is certainly in capable and caring hands.
In terms of distance travelled, Day 2 turned out to be my best. Because of the 62 mile stretch between Lockport and the next lock (#32, just east of Rochester), I was not slowed by lock transits and even enjoyed a bit of a tailwind all the way under a glorious sun. I had planned to finish at Brockport (42 miles). Upon arriving after about 10 hours of rowing, I discovered that the folks there had no appetite for entertaining a rowboat/camping combination overnight…and I was encouraged to explore other "options" along the canal. I DID get a shower…but then slogged 8 more miles in the dark to Spencerport, where I employed the "don't ask, don't tell" strategy of finding a place to sleep. Considering the virtual absence of boats and travel on the canal up to that point, I was astounded…and a little miffed…that the Welcome Mat would not be out at virtually any point. The days of the mega-cruiser showing up for 2500 gallons of fuel and copious re-provisioning might be over – at least for this summer. I would think that any community looking to take advantage of its proximity to the canal would accommodate anyone using this resource…but, alas, not in Brockport.
So I rowed on to Spencerport in the dark, flopped on the town dock at about 10 PM, and slept well under the stars. Very well. A 50 mile day on flat water is a full day.
Day 3 tomorrow, 'K?
Mr. Frei
P.S. Mark McCarty's trip of the end of the row can be found at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/25133618@N07/sets/72157606117000843/
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